

Around 1486,
probably on the ascendancy of the Aztec leader Ahuizotl, work commenced on
the site above Malinalco.
It is believed that it was a centre of ritual
activities for the jaguar and eagle orders of the Aztec military hierarchy.
The region is dotted with caves and has a long history of religious beliefs
associated with cave and earth deities,
so the sanctuary we see today was
possibly originally a small cave. Using slave labour and working with
obsidian tools,
the Aztec builders began to carve directly into the rock
face.

From the
archeological site there is a spectacular view across the town to the valley
and mountains beyond. Faint sounds waft up from the town below, which is
dominated by the Augustinian monastery and church. Stones were taken from
the Aztec site to build this church. The Augustinian friars arrived in this
region in 1537. Work began on the church and monastery soon after, following
the standard, single-nave plan used in early New Spain. It was built using a
rich mixture of architectural styles including late gothic, renaissance and
plateresque with Indian motifs.

As you drive
the winding road into town, you catch glimpses of it perched like an eagle's
aerie on a ridge of the mountains that ring the valley. The small
archaeological site, which overlooks Malinalco, is probably the best-preserved
Aztec
site in Mexico, but this charming town, set amid spectacular scenery
has a lot more to offer visitors.

Malinalco
played a pivotal role in the destiny of the people we now call the Aztecs (but
who called themselves Mexica).
The wandering Mexica tribe was just one of a
number of tribes, collectively called Aztecs, said to originate from the
mythical land of Aztlan. Always a fractious people, they were in constant
tribal quarrels. Even the gods had family
quarrels. The Mexica's supreme god,
Huitzilopochtli (possibly once a great chief who was later deified) had a
sister
called Malinalxochitl. Legend has it that these two had a tremendous
sibling argument. Malinalxochitl decamped
with her followers and settled in
a valley, founding the town of Malinalco.

Thirteen steps,
flanked by jaguar statues, lead to the entrance carved to resemble a mask of
a serpent, whose forked tongue forms the welcoming "mat." Inside the cave-like
inner temple is a low, semi-circular bench with three "seats" for the
military commanders: a jaguar and two eagles. Behind another eagle in the
centre of the floor is a deep hole, to receive offerings to the earth. Blood
sacrifice would have been a part of the rituals performed at the site.

