Chalma, Mx (1)

Thousands of Catholic pilgrims flock to the site throughout the year to give thanks for prayers answered or to make wishes. While some other Mexican pilgrimages involve self-flagellation and suffering, with penitents hobbling on bleeding knees, pilgrims to Chalma pray through dancing. Today’s pilgrims follow each other along the same narrow paths they have for centuries. They take a route through Cuernavaca, then cut through back roads and continue cross-country to Chalma. Many walk the last leg of their journey at night, the glittering light from their torches and candles snaking a magic trail up and down the deep ravines. Women carry small babies; old men hope for a miraculous cure; and young folk seek an adventure. They wear flowers, just as their ancestors did and many crawl on their knees for the final part of their journey.

The peregrinos (pilgrims) arrive in Chalma in time for a hearty breakfast and early mass then relax a while in small plazas around the church before the journey home. At the back of the church, behind the monastery flows a stream - where people still bathe in water from the same spring which fed Ozteotl's cave. Here there is a wall, overcrowded with simple paintings, photos, locks of hair and other personal tributes displayed as thanks for miracles granted. Upon entering the charming baroque church, pilgrims light a candle and place a milagro (small metal talisman) in a box before the altar. The largest number of pilgrims make the journey for Lent to receive the ashes at mass on Ash Wednesday. Just as the adherents to Our Lady of Guadalupe are called Guadalupanas, the devotees of the cult of Our Lord of Chalma proudly call themselves Chalmeros.

Most pilgrimages are well organized. Some parishes have tee shirts and special clothing produced for the annual pilgrimage. However, sometimes you will still see groups of pilgrims wearing traditional clothing from their region. Trucks from the village sometimes accompany a group carrying food and camping supplies and assisting the old and tired. The trucks are brightly decorated with banners and intricate flower arrangements.

The pilgrimages to Chalma take some time for preparation. One month before the journey, pilgrims meet at the house of the captain to discuss and arrange all the preparations. The night before the departure they may gather in the house of the captain or meet at a certain point to go all together. Before, the pilgrimage was done on foot, and sometimes it is still done this way, or walking is combined with cars and buses. On the way there are houses for pilgrims, or private houses where they are given lodging. Many groups of pilgrims have carried all the way from their village the image of their patron saint which has been covered by a blanket during the pilgrimage. At the church it is uncovered by the pilgrimage captain who incenses it and sings some praises.